Fire in the Streets, Coffee on the Corner: Making Sense of Tirana’s February Unrest

If you were walking through central Tirana on the evening of February 10, 2026, the scene might have felt like a waking nightmare. The usually vibrant Boulevard Dëshmorët e Kombit was choked with tear gas. Molotov cocktails flashed against the night sky, illuminating lines of Rapid Intervention Force (FNSH) officers.

While the boulevard was in flames, life in the cafes of the Blloku district (just a five-minute walk away) was almost surreal in its normalcy. Young professionals were typing on laptops, friends were laughing over raki, and tourists were confusedly checking their phones, unaware that a “riot” was happening just around the corner.

This duality is the key to understanding modern Albania. It begs the question every expat is currently asking: Is Albania still safe?

The short answer is yes. The long answer requires us to understand the “cleaning house” moment Albania is enduring, who is paying for it, and the very real risks that remain.

The Scale of Dissent: A Nation “Tired,” Not Just Angry

To understand the flames on the Boulevard, you have to look beyond the opposition’s flags. The unrest isn’t just about one court case; it is the boiling point of a much deeper, nationwide fatigue. According to Transparency International’s 2025 Corruption Perceptions Index, Albania’s score dropped to 39 out of 100, signalling a backslide that has validated public cynicism. For many ordinary citizens, the violence in Tirana is a crude expression of a complex problem: the feeling that the state has been “captured” by private interests. However, it is crucial to distinguish between the widespread dissatisfaction e il localised unrest. While thousands march in Tirana, the “silent protest” elsewhere is far more damaging: emigration. A 2025 Security Barometer survey by the Center for the Study of Democracy and Governance (CSDG) found that Albanians now rate “internal corruption” as a higher security threat than any external enemy. This means that while the molotovs are limited to a few city blocks in the capital, the sentiment behind them, that the system is broke, is a conversation happening at dinner tables from Shkodër to Sarandë.

The average Albanian isn’t necessarily a soldier for the opposition; they are simply a citizen tired of the status quo, waiting to see if SPAK can finally deliver the accountability they crave.

The Trigger: A Specific Political Flashpoint, Not Random Chaos

The unrest on February 10 was not a sign of societal collapse; it was a targeted political reaction. Thousands of opposition supporters gathered to demand the resignation of the government, triggered by the unprecedented corruption indictment of Deputy Prime Minister Belinda Balluku regarding the €50 million Llogara tunnel project.

The Demand: Why the Opposition Wants a “Technical Government”

You will hear the phrase “Technical Government” (Qeveri Teknike) shouted constantly in the coming weeks. The opposition is demanding that the current political cabinet step down and be replaced by a temporary administration of non-partisan “technocrats” (experts, judges, academics).

The Real Story: EU/US-Backed Justice vs. The “Old Guard”

The unrest is a symptom of Albania’s war on its biggest demon: Corruption.

You have likely heard the media narratives painting Albania as a gateway for drugs. It is true that the “Balkan Route” remains a transit point for narcotics moving into the EU, and recent reports indicate an uptick in seizures. But here is the nuance the headlines miss: The impunity is ending.

The chaos we are seeing is a reaction to the aggressive actions of SPAK (The Special Structure Anti-Corruption and Organized Crime). Created as part of the 2016 Justice Reform, SPAK was designed to be the one institution politicians couldn’t touch.

The Risk: Could Albania Follow Serbia’s Path of Judicial Capture?

We hope this represents a “New Dawn,” but we must look at the risks realistically. We have a cautionary tale right next door. In Serbia, recent legal changes effectively “captured” the judiciary, weakening the independence of prosecutors to protect the ruling elite.

•   The Risk for Albania: If the “old guard” feels too threatened by SPAK, they may attempt to legislate it into irrelevance.
•  The Test: The current unrest is a stress test. Will the judicial system buckle under political pressure, or will it stand firm? For now, backed by the US and EU, SPAK is holding the line.

Serious Crime Stats: Statistically Safer Than the Baltics

It is easy to let a night of news footage skew our perception. But let’s look at the statistics. Despite the telegenic chaos of political rallies, Albania remains statistically safer than many European nations regarding violent crime.

•  The Stat: The homicide rate in Albania is roughly 1.2 per 100,000 people.
•  The Comparison: This is significantly lower than EU member states like Latvia (~4.0 per 100k) and Lithuania (~2.5 per 100k), and drastically lower than most major US cities.

Petty Crime: Why Your Wallet is Safer Here Than in London

For expats coming from Western Europe, the safety stats regarding theft are often a pleasant shock.

•  The Stat: According to Eurostat data, Albania has one of the lowest robbery rates in Europe, at roughly 3 robberies per 100,000 inhabitants.
•  The Comparison: Compare that to Belgium (approx. 140 per 100,000) or the United Kingdom (approx. 130 per 100,000).
•  The Takeaway: While you watch the news about “chaos” in Albania, remember that your wallet is statistically safer here than in many Western capitals.

The Real Daily Danger: Traffic

For an expat, the biggest danger isn’t a molotov cocktail; it is the traffic. While road fatalities dropped by 9% in 2024, the driving culture remains chaotic.

Advice: Whether you are driving or crossing the street, never assume a car will stop. This remains the primary daily safety hazard.

The Economic Verdict: Currency Stability Proves Market Confidence

If safety is a feeling, money is a fact. Usually, when a country is on the brink of collapse, its currency plummets.

•  The Fact: Throughout the recent unrest, the Albanian Lek (ALL) has remained remarkably stable against the Euro and the US Dollar.
•  The Verdict: The markets view this unrest as “political theater,” not a structural failure. For investors, this currency resilience is the strongest proof that the economic engine is safe.

The Expat Reality: You Are Part of a Record-Breaking Wave

Far from being a dangerous outpost, Albania is actively rolling out the red carpet. Unlike the standard 90-day Schengen limit, US passport holders can stay in Albania for one year visa-free.

This policy has triggered a massive demographic shift. According to INSTAT (2025 data):

•  Record Highs: The number of foreigners with residence permits reached a record 27,514.
• The Surge: Specifically, the number of US residents jumped by 164% in just the last year.

We spoke to our data expert, Eliseo Kolicaj, a long-time Tirana resident, about the mood on the streets:

In terms of public safety, I could say that Albania is a very safe country. Anyone can take a walk comfortably at any hour, including at night, without feeling unsafe. As for the economy, inflation is playing its part with a noticeable increase in the cost of daily goods and services.

The Verdict: History is Happening

Don’t cancel your flight. Don’t sell your apartment.

The smoke in Tirana is the sign of a country growing up, not falling apart. The people protesting, and the prosecutors working late nights at SPAK, share a common goal: not just a safe Albania, but a fair one.

However, we must remain vigilant. This is a region where stability is hard-won.

•  Advice: Download the apps below. Stay out of the center on February 20th.
• Perspective: The flames make for scary headlines, but the reality on the ground remains one of hospitality, resilience, and arguably the best coffee in Europe.

Stay safe, stay informed, and keep watching. This is a pivotal moment in the country’s history. 

Fonti

AP News

ALJAZEERA

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